Do I really need to claim my deep admiration and love for Vivienne Westwood’s work this season again? Well, yes. First because I am insanely happy year after year to rediscover the signature elements and details I love so much, the asymmetry, the stripes, the checks, her use of shimmering damask, in short all the Baroque-meets-Rock aspects of her style. It’s almost like renewing your marriage vows, realising how indestructible your feelings are, and that you will never get enough. Secondly, because she renews herself each time .
The Red Label’s collection for Spring/Summer 2012 was presented yesterday at Smithfield Market, in East London. The show was attended by many celebrities from Sadie Frost, Tracey Emin, Paloma Faith, to Pamela Anderson, who has been a fan for years and had collaborated with Dame Wetswood in the past.
The collection contains several very wearable items, in a palette of greys and pale blues, notably knitwear ranging from simple cardigan dresses only accessorised with a thin belt, to tuniques, to knitted black ot white deep V-neck tops. But there were also – and God, do we love that – many dramatic outfits, with jackets and dresses that illustrate Westwood’s mastery of cut and flatter so perfectly women’s curves. The most outstanding piece was for me a long strapless dress in scarlet red, delicately teamed with a thin white belt. This silhouette actually reminded of a famous illustration of a Dior dress by Gruau. The very definition of allure.
Ancient Greece has also been a great source of inspiration for this collection, with very modest and refreshing white pleated tuniques and toga drape dresses.
The hair dos were absolutely incredible, with back-combed bird nests, silk scarves tied around huge buns or plaits wrapped around the neck in a Rapunzel style.
Some fashion commentators said it was her best shows in years, and we can only agree!
Laurie Guillem