Fall-Winter 23/24 « Identities » collection
Jean-Claude Jitrois, creator of stretch leather, bases each of his collections on the knowledge he acquired as a psychologist, a profession he practiced for eleven years before devoting himself to fashion. This season, Maison Jitrois offers its J3 Klub the tools, through play and clothing, to enrich and reinforce its identity. For this collection, Jean-Claude Jitrois sought to dive even deeper into the psyche and discover what lies at the heart of each of us, every fragment of character, every new idealized obsession and every hidden impulse.
Let them know who you are [et comment qui vous voulez être perçu], as the projected self may be as important as the lived self. Why? Because it is the most visible, the armor that we show to the world, the representation of the way we want to be perceived. The vision of Jitrois’ AH23/24 collection is an abundance of identities, merging, competing, coexisting and interacting through a postmodern lens.
Jean-Claude Jitrois was inspired by the London punk scene of the 1980s: a time when style was political and unabashed. However, in keeping with the house’s ethos, the clothes are all imbued with the Parisian elegance for which it is known. Effortless chaos is channeled into clean, tailored lines to create elegant, daring silhouettes made of eclectic layers and injections of conflicting colors. This season, the house’s traditional luminous black has been paired with new tones, such as electric orange, snowy white, citrine yellow and a striking turquoise. Then bold and more pointed shapes enter the scene, refining or maximizing depending on the area. The duality between luxury and anarchy allows the subject to engage and embody the multiple facets of his personality.
The exposed zipper, a Jitrois fetish, has found new aesthetics in the AH23/24 collection, allowing the wearer to be ever more in control of her appearance. Jackets can be open at the waist or sleeves, dresses from the neckline to the hem, and all the way down on some pieces, to conceal or reveal the required skin or body surface depending on the occasion. In this textured marriage of technical materials against the skin, stretch leather gives a contemporary effect that exudes a timeless sexuality for all. Fine leather embroidery is also used to draw patterns on the skin, sometimes through intricately cut shapes, or bold patterns on fishnet. The pieces give a subtle nod to the historical rebellion of tattoos, but through couture.
The glow of celebrations and possibilities shines through the darkness of autumn and winter nights. With Swarovski crystal embellishments and radiant metallic leathers in lilac and rose gold, Jitrois brings the decadence of the legendary Saint-Tropez of the 1980s to the modern stage. These luminous materials exude the sultry reputation and cherished history of the house. Present in dresses, boleros, gaiters, gloves, scarves, etc., these pieces and accents give the collection a high level of glamour and luxury that draws the eye of the audience and the glow of strobe lights, here against a backdrop of night and bright, sensual colors for an overflowing energy. These energetic pieces allow the wearer to be the most sparkling version of themselves.
Jean-Claude Jitrois, who likes to stimulate all the senses, has therefore explored new textures this season: he has introduced Mongolian lamb trimmings and revisited bangs in unexpected places. The softer, wispier look of Mongolian lamb has a refreshing contrast to the precision and permanence of leather, creating stylish and versatile coats for parties and everyday wear. While sometimes nodding to the contemporary style of the street, they retain the immediately recognizable silhouette of the house. Leather fringe, another essential element of the Jitrois aesthetic is shown in its most dynamic and seductive movement, in deep black and in a new Citrine yellow, in gaiters on the lower leg. They bring a dramatic touch to looks, with an almost playful, versatile feel. Finally, Jitrois offers new shapes in sumptuous suede, with military-style hooded jackets: striking but incredibly soft to the touch.
For the AH23/24 collection, Jitrois invites its J3 Klub to celebrate itself as never before: to celebrate all aspects of the body and mind, giving free rein to identities. After presenting a multi-faceted collection rich in new ideas, the house enters a new era of structure, texture, glamour and sexuality.
Jean Claude Jitrois
