LA PLANÈTE SAUVAGE
Études N°17 – Autumn Winter 2020.21
Today, the thin line between dystopian visions and current affairs continues to waver. What was once speculation has become reality, or simply nostalgia. When the ‘20-year rule’ is of our own making, that which we choose to reprise must merit new reflection. Returning to a cultural narrative questions its intention, its longevity, and its place in our collective consciousness. The Autumn Winter 2020-21 collection approaches this conceit with precaution, unpicking Études own memory bank to deliver a transcontinental discourse on 20th century science fiction and its intentions for nature and technology. Between the robotic and the psychedelic, the Études wardrobe, designed by Aurélien Arbet, Jérémie Egry and José Lamali, is revealed in the context of a disused industrial location, evading reality in the fictional space of a glowing yellow cocoon.
From France, the cult 1973 animated film La Planète Sauvage imagines the faraway planet Ygam and the feudal relationship between the android Draags and humanoid Om people. Across digital- printed all-over silk shirts, transfer tees and patched bombers, its political surrealism and figurative storybook aesthetic illustrated by Roland Topor become the counterpoint to biker portraits from the 1991 American blockbuster Terminator 2: Judgement Day directed by James Cameron, featuring Arnold Schwarzenegger and Edward Furlong. Within these two disparate films, subjects of extraterrestrial life, artificial intelligence and the fantasy of time travel inform the collection’s visual cues: from heatmap prints to slick leather trenches or the mercurial shades of grey and silver-coated outerwear.
Disrupting the expectations of a shape or textile, tailoring wool is cut into fluid paneled parkas and workwear trousers, whilst heavy chevron weave is laminated with a waterproof gloss finish. Patch pocket coats are lightly padded and worn with belt bags, layered with long button-off tunic shirts and acid wash denim. Chunky sweaters depict video game graphics in handknit yarns, adding a raw touch against the season’s linear silhouette and gridded patterns of Day-Glo checks or a sprayed leopard camouflage.
The Études x Adieu footwear range is updated in gunmetal silver leather with a new Chelsea boot style, whilst the second generation Études eyewear collection introduces full acetate frames to the range with iridescent lenses, translucent colour ways and beveled frames. In collaboration with Swiss jeweler Vanessa Schindler, ironic heavy metal jewelry is cast in tinted polymer, creating unique nebulous shapes.
— AW20.21 Collaborations:
Terminator 2 Judgment Day
La Planète Sauvage
Adieu
Vanessa Schindler
Styled by Georgia Pendlebury
Exclusive Soundtrack by Vladimir Cauchemar
Soundscape by Pierre Rousseau
A special thanks to adidas for their support.
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Terminator 2: Judgment Day, T2, THE TERMINATOR, ENDOSKELETON, and any depiction of Endoskeleton are trademarks of Studiocanal S.A.S. All Rights Reserved. Copyright: ©2020 Studiocanal S.A.S. ® All Rights Reserved. La Planète Sauvage: ©ARGOS FILMS. All Rights Reserved. Used under license.