Shiatzy Chen chose to interpret her last collection in quite a colorful way. This season, the colors she picked are darker and graver. The flirtiness from her past collections has evolved into a high level of sophistication and class, without ever missing an occasion to pay a tribute and make an implied reference to her roots.
The tones are earthy, the colors, demure. The first looks resemble more an experimentation from the designer than actual seasonal clothing since they are painted on with a brush.
Now, about the rest of the collection, Shiatzy Chen clearly takes her inspiration from a natural world, even the minutest details seems to be reminiscing of the vegetal world (the velvet green boots mimics the moss you find on trees, the color palette integrates browns, multiple shades of green, teal and red).
Silk is exquisite at Shiatzy Chen and is used as a solid basis for this collection. Bows, pleats, embroideries, silk can be worked and reworked in an infinity of ways and the designer has understood it. The execution is poetic, sometimes reminding of her previous collection, with girly looks (short skirts, frills, bows) and the other times showcasing the designer’s new direction for the season.
Fur is also present on certain looks, Chinese inspired prints are shown on two looks, prints do not support the collection. The techniques of draping are witnessed way more often (I think here of the gowns closing the show with an incredible, Marchesa-level structure).
Velvet is mostly on the boots (the moss effect) and brocade ensembles. Black looks are, most often than not, slick and serious and a tad more masculine than the rest of the collection as we get to see sleeveless vest and floor length coats. Speaking of the coats, this season, a surprising choice of fabric is made as we get to see lurex ensembles and coats.
Jewelry is encrusted to some pieces of garment to dedramatize sharper looks because the woman at Shiatzy Chen in versatile and can easily switech between daywear and eveningwear ensembles.
Mary Yasmine Arrouche