One word: biker jacket. They were everywhere at the Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2011 show that took place at the Chelsea College of Art and Design for the fifth time consecutively on Tuesday. This was the biggest show of the London Fashion Week, with an impressive crowd inside, but also outside the venue, hoping to spot celebrities – and there definitely were many of them attending the show, from Anna Wintour to Sarah Jessica Parker, to Mario Testino, Serena Williams and Andy Murray, to Alexa Chung and Cat Deeley, and many others.
Christopher Bailey managed the perfect balance between impeccable cut, freshness and rock ‘n’ roll attitude. Sharp silhouettes with strip or studded biker leggings, leather pencil skirts in trench or black, teamed with biker jackets or cropped trench coats with biker sleeves and leather tape reinforcements.
A touch of pop was brought in by the curve creating belts in patent leather that came in bright colours, such as citrus, lime, spearmint or purple, adding even more structure to the silhouette, and the very cute mismatched purses.
Biker jackets were indisputably the key pieces of this Spring/Summer collection and were declined in a wide range of shapes, fabrics, details and colours: cropped, sleeveless, studded, with quilted biker basques, in washed leather, soft patent leather, bonded leather, and sometimes in the same fluorescent colours as the belts.
Military influences, dear to Christopher Bailey, showed up through the khaki trousers and the use of cotton gabardine.
On the other hand, some very feminine pieces appeared at mid-show, with layered silk dresses and duchess satin T-shirt dresses in beautiful bright colours or more daring prints. But the Burberry Prorsum woman this season has definitely something wild about her… and we love it!
Laurie Guillem